In the Beginning

Driving a car, your relationship with the road is like that with a friend. Bumps are softened. On a motorcycle, the relationship is much more intimate, like that with a lover. You feel every small bump and dip.

Me, November 2011


This is the unfolding story of motorcycling and me. While I'd toyed with the idea of riding for several years, I'd never thrown a leg over a motorcycle until I was 51. Then the time seemed right. My youngest kid had finished high school so I considered myself expendable. I'd just spent two years with every waking moment was consumed writing a book. With it completed, I again owned my life and was looking for a new obsession.

My driving force in life has always been pushing myself, taking on new challenges and mastering new skills. I thrive on exploring new places and always prefer to be outside with the wind on me as much as possible. So I gravitated to riding.

As I contemplated this big plunge, I made several assumptions. One was that riding a motorcycle would save money given that gasoline prices had just spiked. A second was that royalties from the book would pay for a motorcycle. But most of all, I assumed that having put in thousands of miles on road racing and mountain bicycles, and manual transmission cars for years, I'd pick up motorcycle riding easily.

These assumptions all turned out to be wrong. What I spent on motorcycling far exceeded any savings from higher gas mileage. I didn't sell enough books to cover the costs. And learning to ride was much, much more difficult than I expected. But it was also much more fulfilling. In life, I've always wanted to be where I'm not. And I'm rushing to get there.

In the few years since I began riding, I've fallen passionately in love with it. The average American motorcyclist rides 1800 miles per year. I did 16,000 my first year, 18,000 the second, and over 20,000 in the third. I've continued to average 15,000 to 16,000 miles per year even when I began writing a weekly column that eats up much of my Sundays. At night I often dream of squiggly lines on a map. Seriously.

When everything is clicking--I'm alone on a winding country road, I've got my "A" game, the music is in a groove--I sometimes forget the motorcycle is there and feel like I'm simply flying. If you don't want to take my word for it, trust Alton Brown.

Luckily, I live close to some fine riding, with twisty roads over mountain ridges, large state forests, miles of farmland (which often requires dodging Amish buggies), charming little towns (each different from all the others), and lots of historic sites. There's always somewhere new to see. (Here's a map of my favorite routes and road food). I particularly like combining riding with photography--one of my other passions.

When I began this blog I was riding a 2010 BMW R1200R. In BMW jargon, this bike was a "hexhead" (named because the engine cylinder covers are hexagonal). So these are the "Hexhead Diaries." I'll update them regularly with stories and pictures. Stay tuned!

Sunday, July 10, 2011

It's Been a While

It's not that I'm not riding, but there's been nothing of note and no good photos. Between bad weather, illness, a wedding, and a number of overdue writing projects, I haven't done any really long rides. I don't think I've had a day over 300 miles all season. But the miles pile up. Yesterday I'd owned my R1200R one year and one week, and passed the 21,000 mile mark. I followed an excellent if not overly long ride along this route:


View Boalsburg in a larger map

This route involves about 8 mountain crossings. The weather was beautiful and I had my "A" game, routinely hitting curves at 20 MPH over the posted recommended speed. I didn't scrap a peg this time, but was close.

One bizarre thing did happen, though: on a twisty section of Route 74, I was passed by an old lady in a Subaru. Never saw her coming. That really took me aback. I very rarely get passed anymore, and then only by brainless young males. But this lady was flying. I saw her later by the side of the road with a cigarette hanging from her mouth.

While there weren't many fun thieves on the road, the last half hour I got stuck behind a gaggle of about 20 Harleys from Virginia. They weren't skilled enough to hold a tight formation, so there was lots of accordion action in the curves. But they eventually pulled off and I was able to blast by.

I haven't gotten a speeding ticket for 12 years but I can't imagine the streak will continue. I've bonded with the R1200R and it's so wicked in luring me to ride fast. I'm very good about slowing down in towns and on major highways. But on isolated farm and mountain roads, 20 over the speed limit is my comfort zone. I've been saved a few times recently by someone blinking to let me know of impending speed trap, but I'm living on borrowed time.

The BMW Motorcycle Owners of America national rally is coming up in a few weeks. This year it's at Bloomsburg, PA, so I'll ride up for a day or two. It will be my first big rally.

I've been thinking a bit about the difference in culture and philosophy between BMW and Harley. To demonstrate, let me copy and paste the description of my bike and the Harley Softail Deluxe, which is my favorite model from that brand. This is from the Total Motorcycle web site (since it uses promotional information provided by the manufacturers).

2010 BMW R1200R

The R 1200 R. All business, all the time.

If you're looking for a bike with zero pretensions that's all attitude, the R 1200 R is your ride. From blazing performance in the twisties to long distance touring to blasts around the city this is a supremely capable motorcycle that offers exhilarating performance. Featuring a generous 109hp, the new R 1200 R has the horsepower torque and acceleration to create thrills with every mile. Add the latest version of BMW Integral ABS and Automatic Stability Control, and the R 1200 R is as sure-footed as it is exciting. Handling is remarkably precise thanks to the Telelever front suspension and the motorcycle's low center of gravity. Now every turn becomes a pulse-quickening experience no matter where the pavement takes you.

Powerful character for pure motorcycling joy - the BMW R1200R. The 1200cc generates an output of 109 bhp and 115 Nm of torque. The perfect suspension has no trouble at all with the weight of 223 kg (fully fuelled). You could load up the same again and still enjoy the almost playful and truly convincing handling of this motorcycle. Combined with exemplary safety equipment, a timeless yet modern, high-quality and sporty design, the BMW R1200R is truly a multi-talented motorcycle.

The BMW R 1200 R is a classic roadster, yet one which is far ahead of its time thanks to its state-of-the-art technology.

But its confident attitude doesn’t come by accident. After all, 80 kW (109 hp) and 115 Nm peak torque are bound to make a name for themselves. The unique style of the R 1200 R is a testament to the fact that only true originals can be one of a kind. The R 1200 R is a superb all-around talent on the road. One the one hand it is a powerful and sporty curve raider, while on the other it is a comfortable yet unflappable travel companion on longer tours. The R 1200 R can be tailor-made to the rider’s needs with a wide array of accessories. Whether it’s a sporty, a traditional or a more touring-oriented naked bike you desire, the BMW R 1200 R is always a faithful companion.

This roadster is a bike of many talents. Relishing the corners on the one hand and a supremely comfortable travelling companion on the other. Moreov­er it can be customised with a wide range of accessories to suit your every need (including BMW's groundbreaking Automatic Stability Control). The classy design will catch many an eye and the high-quality construction can be seen and felt everywhere. Pure BMW, the R 1200 R features proven technology that will impress you time and time again - qualities that, once experienced, you'll not want to do without.

The BMW R 1200 R - modern power, exclusive looks and a truly classic naked bike.



2010 Harley-Davidson Softail Deluxe FLSTN

The Softail® Deluxe combines nostalgic styling cues like a tombstone tail light, deep-skirted seat and wide white wall tires, with ergonomics that make this an old-school cruiser that's easy to handle.

The Softail rear suspension mimics the clean lines of a vintage hardtail frame but offers the comfort of a modern suspension that is hidden under the chassis. The rigid powertrain allows tight packaging of the engine and frame and creates a solid connection between the rider and the power that moves the motorcycle.

Model Highlights

New Fuel tank sender for accurate fuel-level readings
New Helical cut 5th gear for improved transmission sound

• Black powder-coated powertrain with chrome covers
• Chrome over/under shotgun exhaust
• Chrome, Laced Steel wheels
• Wide whitewall tires
• MU85B-16 rear tire
• Chrome nostalgic seven-inch ball headlamp
• Chrome oil tank
• Chrome nostalgic tank console with electronic speedometer
• Stainless steel, low-rise handlebar
• Full-length rider footboards
• Two-piece, two-up Softail® seat with “collapsing” sides and removable pillion and chrome grab rails
• Integrated chrome luggage rack
• Tombstone taillight
• Full-coverage front and rear fenders with chrome accents


Key Features

The Softail® Deluxe combines nostalgic styling cues like a tombstone tail light, deep-skirted seat and wide white wall tires, with ergonomics that make this an old-school cruiser that’s easy to handle.

The Softail rear suspension mimics the clean lines of a vintage hardtail frame but offers the comfort of a modern suspension that is hidden under the chassis. The rigid powertrain allows tight packaging of the engine and frame and creates a solid connection between the rider and the power that moves the motorcycle.

• Rigid-mounted, counter-balanced Twin Cam 96B™ V-Twin engine with Electronic Sequential Port Fuel Injection (ESPFI)
• 6-Speed Cruise Drive® Transmission
• Horseshoe oil tank
• Five-gallon fuel tank
• Optional Harley-Davidson® Smart Security System with hands-free security fob
• Optional Chrome Profile Laced Aluminum wheels with wide whitewall tires


My point is the degree to which Harley focuses on the looks--the bike as a work of art--and BMW on the performance and technology. I'm glad to live in a world where both exist.

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